How To Decipher Your Clothes' Care Labels

by Mr. Wakefield


Stands for:

 Do not bleach.

Translation: Pretty simple, really. Also, make sure your detergent's ingredients don't list "sodium hypochlorite," which is the chemical name for bleach.

Stands for:

 Machine wash.

Translation: Toss it in the washer. The number of dots indicate the temperature. One for cold. Two for warm. Three for hot.

Stands for:

 Hand wash.

Translation: Head to the sink and run some warm water (between 90 and 95 degrees). No Woolite? Shampoo will work. Don't scrub too hard. Not interested in manual labor? The washer's gentle cycle should suffice.

Stands for:

 Do not iron.

Translation: Hang in the bathroom during a shower to release small wrinkles. Use a steamer to work out larger wrinkles. Or simply take to a dry cleaner to have pressed.

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The system of dots indicating temperature range (one for low, two for medium, three for high, four for extra high), is the same for washing, drying or ironing.

Stands for:

 Dry on low heat.

Translation: This can be dried in the dryer. The number of dots indicate the temperature, so one dot means low heat. A line under this symbol means that it should be dried on the "permanent press" setting--a rule to follow even when it's not called for.

Stands for:

 Do not tumble dry.

Translation: The best thing to do is lay a towel onto your bed, and flatten the damp garment onto the towel. Flip over a few hours later and it should be dry by bedtime.

Stands for:

 Dry Clean.

Translation: Delicate fabrics like silk and some wools require dry cleaning. You can attempt washing by hands, but dry cleaning will help prolong the shape and quality of the garment


Suit Supply | Luxury Look For Less

by Mr. Wakefield


It can cost a man a lot less to feel like a million bucks in his suit these days.

There are more suits priced between $500 and $700 that include features once found typically on more expensive suits: fine Italian fabrics, modern cuts and narrow lapels. The goal is to attract younger men who increasingly want the current fitted, formal styles as opposed to the boxy suits and more casual office wear of their dads.

Suit Supply offers its sometimes flashy suits with details like Italian wool fabric, brightly colored lining and working button holes, features that usually carry a higher price tag.

Other efforts to keep up quality at lower prices include J. Crew Group Inc.'s expanded men's suit selection. Sales of its men's suit have more than doubled since 2008, when the clothing company introduced a slimmer style, made with Italian wool and superior interior construction, a spokeswoman says. The style, called Ludlow, starts at about $600.

At HMX, which owns American suit brands like Hickey Freeman and Hart Schaffner Marx, the fastest growth is in its lower priced suits, around $795, says Joseph Abboud, president and chief creative officer for HMX. Sales of Hart Schaffner Marx suits, the company's brand in that price range, are up 27% year to date compared to last year, says Mr. Abboud.

The briskest sales growth at Brooks Brothers is happening in its recently expanded Suiting Essentials line, priced starting at $598, says Guy Voglino, divisional merchandise manager for men's clothing at the company. Sales of the line are up 28% in 2011 to date, compared to the same period last year, Mr. Voglino says.

Introduced in 2007 offering one fit, the line has expanded to four different fits, most recently the brand's narrowest cuts, the Fitzgerald and the Milano. Brooks Brothers offers some made-to-measure options including about 20 fabrics. The ability to individualize appeals to younger men who want to stand out even in a room of suits, says Mr. Voglino. Because each suit is specially ordered, the company saves money by producing only what it actually sells and doesn't risk bloated inventory.

The interest in suits at this price range comes amid an overall pick up in suit sales at some manufacturers. Brooks Brothers says sales of its 1818 Collection, priced about $1,000, are up 26% year-over-year. HMX is seeing double digit growth in volume and dollar sales across brands and price points, says Mr. Abboud.

"We are seeing the suit business really come back in the last six months very very strongly," says Robert Burke, a luxury-goods consultant and founder of Robert Burke Associates in New York.

Suitsupply is able to keep down prices, in part, by picking store locations slightly off main shopping streets with lower rents, says Fokke de Jong, chief executive and founder of the company. The company's new Soho New York location will be on a second floor with no street level window display. About 15% of Suitsupply suits are sold through the website.


How To Pronounce Designer Names

by Mr. Wakefield


Alessandro Dell'Acqua: Ala-SAND-roe del-LA-kwa

Ann Demeulemeester: ann DEH-moo-lah-MEE-ster

Bottega Veneta: BO-teg-a VEN-eta

Burberry Prorsum: BUR-bur-ree proar-SOME

Comme des Garçons: Comb day gar-SON

Dior Homme: dee-OAR OM

Dolce & Gabbana: DOLE-chay and gab-BON-a

Dries Van Noten: DREEZE van KNOW-ten

DSquared2: DEE squared

Givenchy: Zshee-VON-she

Gucci: GOO-chi

Hedi Slimane: Eddy slim-MAHN

Hermès: AIR-mehz

John Varvatos: John var-VAY-toes

Junya Watanabe: JUNE-ya Wah-TAH-nah-bay

Kris Van Assche: Chris van-ASH

Lanvin: lon-VAUN

Louis Vuitton: loo-E vo-WE-ton

Maison Martin Margiela: MAZE-on Mar-TIN mar-GEL-a

Moschino: mo-SKEEN-o

Raf Simons: rauph SEE-mon

Salvatore Ferragamo: Sal-va-TOH-reh Fair-a-GAH-moe

Veronique Branquinho: Ve-ro-NEEK BRANG-kee-no

Versace: ver-SAH-chay

Yohji Yamamoto: YO-jee ya-MA-moto

Yves Saint Laurent: EVE Sane-LOR-aunt

Zegna: ZANE-ya


Cesar Renuan | A Step Above Luxury Yet Affordable

by Mr. Wakefield


Mr. Wakefield:           Tell us about yourself

Mr. Renuan:              I'm Puerto Rican and was raised in a military household. Growing up I had to move every three years because of the military, but my High School and college years were spent in Brooklyn. I studied Finance at St. John's University and did not intend to be in the fashion industry, just turned out that way. 

My interests include obviously menswear, music, movies, cigars and food.

Mr. Wakefield:            How would you define your city's fashion?

Mr. Renuan:                Well NYC is one of the Meccas of fashion and is the ultimate melting pot. This really allows people freely express themselves through fashion. That said I would define NYC's fashion as eclectic. 

Mr. Wakefield:            What was the first article of clothing you ever designed?

Mr. Renuan:                The first article I designed was a white button down classic spread collar with baby blue compliment lining and blue buttonhole stitching. I thought it was the greatest shirt ever created... Still do!

Cesar Renuan

Cesar Renuan

Mr. Wakefield:            What are some of your accomplishments as a designer?

Mr. Renuan:                I've worked with some great companies as a designer. I think my greatest accomplishments are yet to come, talk to me in a couple years.

Mr. Wakefield:            Who are some of your favorite designers?

Mr. Renuan:                Ralph Lauren was able to develop a lifestyle out of a brand. Thom Browne is a great designer who was able so define a distinct men's look that is now iconic. Tom Ford's take on formal wear is truly inspirational I have definitely been influenced by his designs.

Mr. Wakefield:            Where can readers buy your clothes?

Mr. Renuan:                My custom garments can be ordered online via our website. CesarRenuan.com

Mr. Wakefield:            How long have you worked as a designer?

Mr. Renuan:                This is my second year as a designer.

Mr. Wakefield:            What do you believe makes a quality article of clothing?

Mr. Renuan:                A quality article of clothing is timeless, something that can look great during any decade and even passed down, that is quality. 

Mr. Wakefield:            What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?

Mr. Renuan:                Be true to yourself, try not to buy into trends because you'll find your identity linked to those trends and trends eventually die.

Mr. Wakefield:            How would you define your personal style?

Mr. Renuan:                My personal style is really defined by my calendar, depending on what I'm doing that day I tend to look the part. For my casual style I take a lot from my days in Brooklyn so you may see me in some vintage Polo and select Jordan's. Professionally I tend to wear mostly suits, I take influence from the Rat Pack, and always try to add some color with accessories.

Mr. Wakefield:            How would you define the style your line exemplifies?

Mr. Renuan:                My line represents a return to the days when a suit was not limited to the office or special events. A man should be able to walk into any event and never feel underdressed.

Mr. Wakefield:            What are your favorite patterns [prints] to work with and why?

Mr. Renuan:                Lately I've been using a lot of glen plaid or prince of whales, the complex pattern can contain multiple colors that allows you to mix and match a wider range of compliment colors.

Mr. Wakefield:            Where can readers find out more about you and your work?

Mr. Renuan:                The website or follow our Instagram @cesarrenuan